What about ls engines

With LS engines you will be expected to know acronym-speak–like QD, which stands for quick disconnect. GM began using a slick QD fitting on the fuel pressure and return lines right with the first LS engines. These fittings snap in place but require a special but inexpensive tool to disconnect them. These fittings are designed to work with GM’s PTFE (plastic) fuel lines but most car builders prefer to work with AN line. Several companies like Aeromotive, Russell, and others offer a nice aluminum adapter fitting that snaps over the hard line on the factory EFI manifold while offering a simple male AN fitting on the other end. The Aeromotive fittings shown here use female O-ring boss (ORB) ends that use a straight AN thread sealed with a Viton O-ring. We’ve also included a couple of part numbers from TechAFX that makes short 24-inch long PTFE hoses with the proper GM connector on one end. The other end of the hose can be fitted with a TechAFX AN fitting to connect to an AN or hard line. All these PNs can be found in the accompanying chart.
All GM LS Gen III/IV engines use the CS130D alternator with its unique connector. To wire this alternator into a ’60’s GM vehicle, Painless Performance makes an adapter (PN 3705) that connects the alternator’s “I” terminal to a charge indicator light on the dash. If you choose to not employ the indicator light, you must use a 50- to 100-ohm, 5-watt resistor inline as indicated on the illustration. This resistor is included in the kit. If the resistor is not used, full voltage will quickly kill the internal regulator. Don’t be that guy! The CS130D is a 100-plusamp alternator so it’s best to include a suitable charge wire

from the alternator to the battery. Powermaster suggests a minimum of an 8-gauge charge wire, while a 6-gauge is even better. This minimizes charging system resistance and offers the proper voltage to all your accessories.
But we’re here to take the hassle out of those details. LS engine swaps have become the easiest and quickest way to infuse 21st century power into classic Chevy performance machines. Dozens of stories have been written on the basics–with attention paid to the big stuff like headers, engine mounts, oil pans, and the like. But what about all the remaining details? It’s those niggling little fine points that keep you out in the shop late at night figuring out the best way to make that swap work without just throwing money at the solution. steering box, or where to get those slick fuel line adapters that convert the GM quick-disconnect hard lines to AN hose. Yeah, we gotcha covered.

The interior of Jim’s ’67 is equally as stunning. He fabricated a custom dash insert, which surrounds Marshall Comp II LED gauges while the dash itself is a clear anodized brushed aluminum piece. Instead of a key, Jim added a modern touch to his classic by installing an entirely keyless ignition and locking system with pushbutton start. Billet Specialties vents blow ice-cold air from the March A/C compressor controlled by a Vintage Air control panel located in the glovebox. The seats are stock ’67 Chevelle buckets, but Jim custom-designed the leather and stitching the seats are wrapped in. Jim is all about the modern details, and another innovative feature he built into the Chevelle is a completely Bluetoothcontrolled audio system. He used a Pioneer amplifier and Infinity speakers, but instead of a traditional head unit he wired in a Bluetooth receiver so he can connect his iPhone and play his tunes directly from the phone. Why didn’t we think of that? After the two-and-a-half-year build was complete, Jim is able to look back and be pleased with the whole process, “I really enjoyed the design, engineering, and the build. Working with my brother and a couple friends’ shops makes it all worthwhile.” Lucky for us, he might grace us with another custom build. “Maybe a hot rod or a 1970 Chevelle?” says Jim. Whatever he decides on, we are always in support of cool, home-built rides like Jim’s 1967 Chevelle and can’t wait to see what he comes up with next.
The stock intake manifold was polished by Mirror Polishing of Waterbury, Connecticut. The headers are long-tubes from Hooker–also chrome–that allow the exhaust to flow freely through 3.5-inch tubes and two Pypes Race Pro mufflers then out dual chrome exhaust tips. Finishing up the engine dress-up are polished stock valve covers and custom-painted with a Billet Specialties air cleaner up top. Power is transferred from the 427 toward the back of the Chevelle via a TREMEC TKO 600 five-speed manual transmission. In the rear is a limited slip­equipped 12-bolt with 3.55 gears and Moser Engineering 31-spline axles. Jim opted for Classic Performance Products (CPP) tubular A-arms and QA1 coilovers in the front of his ’67 to achieve the modern ride he was looking for. Out back, he used CPP’s Stage IV adjustable four-link and antiroll bar paired with Viking Performance coilovers. For equally modern braking, Jim installed Baer 14-inch slotted and cross-drilled rotors with six-piston calipers front and rear. The Baer brakes sit behind polished American Racing VN425 wheels, 18×8 in the front and 20×12 in the back, with Michelin Pilot Super Sports keeping the Chevelle stuck to the road. All the running gear in Jim’s Chevelle is undoubtedly impressive, but where the car stands out even more is the exterior and interior design. In case you didn’t notice, the car is painted bright orange, which certainly catches the eye.

What chevy comes with

Chevy comes with either the F-car or the deeper truck balancer. This means you don’t have to buy a new balancer. And the brackets accept the early F-car alternator and a truck power steering pump–a wonderful combination of affordable original parts. We’ve listed the part numbers for the basic alternator and power steering brackets and the spacers in the accompanying chart. CHP covered the complete installation in the November 2015 issue that you can find online for more details. It’s a great idea and not too expensive. CHP The Corvette accessory drive is what everybody desires but these are expensive and the early F-car/ GTO middle depth systems are becoming more difficult to find. Holley realized this and created an expandable accessory drive with spacers to allow you to create an LS1/LS6-style Corvette accessory drive using Holley’s brackets. The mounting brackets that position the alternator and power steering are based on the short Corvette depth.

The least expensive accessory drive out there is the truck system. It’s also the longest in terms of depth and the tallest, which sometimes can cause hood clearance problems or issues with steering clearance. With front-steer Chevelles, the power steering pulley comes extremely close to the steering box. But there are simpler solutions than searching for a smaller pulley or moving the engine farther rearward.

If you choose to go the carbureted route for your street LS, this makes much of the conversion simpler, but you will have to add some type of ignition control. The easiest, simplest, and quickest way to do this is with MSD ignition boxes. For the 24x engines the PN is 6010, while the 58x engines use the PN 6012. If you’re not sure which engine you have, just locate the cam sensor. If the sensor is at the rear of the engine behind the lifter valley plate it is a 24x engine. If the cam sensor is in the front at the timing cover, then your engine is a 58x. The beauty of this controller is that you can set your timing two different ways. The simple way is to just plug in one of the supplied chips and they will automatically set a curve.

The 4.8/5.3L and 6.0L LS truck engines are among the most popular swaps because they’re less expensive. One down side to using these e is their unsightly (OK, ugly) tall intake manifold. For the older cathedral p engines, it’s a simple bolt-on swap to add an LS1/LS6 low-profile intak when you do this, the upright water pump outlet to the radiator is direct the way. The easiest way to avoid that is to use Holley’s new water pum (PN 22-101) that maintains the proper belt spacing to retain the truck accessory drive, but repositions the water pump outlet to the radiator to a lower, forward-facing position. This is a simple bolt-on with no spacer or other modifications necessary. If you have an F-car LS1 pump available, there’s a company called LS Brackets that sells a spacer kit and a relocated idler pulley that will accomplish the same thing. The Ho pump, however, is a simple bolt-on–no mods required.

New gps for driving is out

He Magellan SmartGPS is a movable navigation device, but it is also part of a bigger system that, at the time of publication, has parts that give users many ways to navigate, search for destination, and manage their favorite places. At the core of this system is the SmartGPS hardware, which may be used as a standalone navigation device. but, the hardware works best when used in tandem with Magellan’s smartphone apps for iPhone and Android devices and a cloud syncing service called MiCloud that’s available via any Web browser.

The SmartGPS hardware looks about like you’d expect a movable navigation device to look. it is a plastic slab with a touch screen on one side that gets suction cupped to your windshield.

The device measures about 6.75 inches from corner to corner, but has a diagonal screen size of only five inches. there is lots of glossy black bezel around that screen, which looks like lots of wasted space – especially on the horizontal – for those of us used to seeing smartphones, tablets, and other movable navigation devices push their screens closer and closer to being edgeless. Imagine a device that is about the size of a small tablet with a screen the size of an average Android phone and you will have an idea of the possible for extra display real estate. To be just, five inches is a respectable screen size for a navigator, but when you think about the amount of info that Magellan tries to cram onto the SmartGPS’ screen, this seem like a missed opportunity to go bigger or wider.
SmartGPS size comparison
The 5-inch screen is not considerably bigger than my Samsung Galaxy Nexus’, in spite of the SmartGPS’ bigger footprint. Antuan Goodwin/CNET

The screen is glass and features capacitive sensitivity, enabling swiping, pinching, and tapping gestures. The glossy black bezel is home to a capacitive home button located near the upper left corner and a pinhole microphone for hands free calling.

Flip it over and you will find a speaker on the SmartGPS unit’s back side and a power button on top edge.

The bottom edge is home to all of the ports and connections supported by the SmartGPS. there is a microSD card slot for updates and rising available memory for maps, a 3.5mm analog output for connecting headphones or plugging into your vehicle’s secondary input, and a micro USB port that connects to the 12-volt to USB charging cable that embeds in the suction cup mount for one handed connection and disconnection. The included suction cup mount is a tough one, once mounted properly to a glass windshield. The mount only has one point of articulation – a ball joint with a locking ring at the base of the cradle – so there is not lots of flopping around once you have got the SmartGPS locked in.
smartGPS ports
All of the physical connections may be found on the bottom edge. Antuan Goodwin/CNET

Finally, there is an 3.5mm AV input that makes the SmartGPS matched with Magellan’s rear view camera .

The SmartGPS also hosts invisible connections for Bluetooth and Wi Fi for data synchronization and, for the former, hands free calling.

Standalone navigation
The SmartGPS combinations up Magellan’s familiar interface by adding smart “Squares,” which are live updating tiles that occupy part of the map screen and supply secondary data at a glance and fast shortcuts to places. On the default home screen, four of these squares are displayed, showing shortcuts to close places pulled from Yelp and Foursquare, close gas stations and live fuel prices, and close traffic events. When navigating, the map which usually only occupies half of the screen expands from to occupy three quarters, pushing two of the smart squares off of the right edge of the display.