Chevy comes with either the F-car or the deeper truck balancer. This means you don’t have to buy a new balancer. And the brackets accept the early F-car alternator and a truck power steering pump–a wonderful combination of affordable original parts. We’ve listed the part numbers for the basic alternator and power steering brackets and the spacers in the accompanying chart. CHP covered the complete installation in the November 2015 issue that you can find online for more details. It’s a great idea and not too expensive. CHP The Corvette accessory drive is what everybody desires but these are expensive and the early F-car/ GTO middle depth systems are becoming more difficult to find. Holley realized this and created an expandable accessory drive with spacers to allow you to create an LS1/LS6-style Corvette accessory drive using Holley’s brackets. The mounting brackets that position the alternator and power steering are based on the short Corvette depth.
The least expensive accessory drive out there is the truck system. It’s also the longest in terms of depth and the tallest, which sometimes can cause hood clearance problems or issues with steering clearance. With front-steer Chevelles, the power steering pulley comes extremely close to the steering box. But there are simpler solutions than searching for a smaller pulley or moving the engine farther rearward.
If you choose to go the carbureted route for your street LS, this makes much of the conversion simpler, but you will have to add some type of ignition control. The easiest, simplest, and quickest way to do this is with MSD ignition boxes. For the 24x engines the PN is 6010, while the 58x engines use the PN 6012. If you’re not sure which engine you have, just locate the cam sensor. If the sensor is at the rear of the engine behind the lifter valley plate it is a 24x engine. If the cam sensor is in the front at the timing cover, then your engine is a 58x. The beauty of this controller is that you can set your timing two different ways. The simple way is to just plug in one of the supplied chips and they will automatically set a curve.
The 4.8/5.3L and 6.0L LS truck engines are among the most popular swaps because they’re less expensive. One down side to using these e is their unsightly (OK, ugly) tall intake manifold. For the older cathedral p engines, it’s a simple bolt-on swap to add an LS1/LS6 low-profile intak when you do this, the upright water pump outlet to the radiator is direct the way. The easiest way to avoid that is to use Holley’s new water pum (PN 22-101) that maintains the proper belt spacing to retain the truck accessory drive, but repositions the water pump outlet to the radiator to a lower, forward-facing position. This is a simple bolt-on with no spacer or other modifications necessary. If you have an F-car LS1 pump available, there’s a company called LS Brackets that sells a spacer kit and a relocated idler pulley that will accomplish the same thing. The Ho pump, however, is a simple bolt-on–no mods required.